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how to crochet a butterfly, da QUESTO blog:

My schedule has been too hectic to finish any real projects lately, so I’ve been getting my crochet fix by whipping up these tiny little butterflies in every color. The trick? Use embroidery floss. It comes in every shade imaginable, it’s the perfect thickness for little accessories, and it’s cheap. They’re perfect for cards, scrapbook pages, hair clips, they’d even be cute on the front of a baby onesie or beanie.
Below are my original patterns for how to crochet a butterfly. If you’re comfortable with a crochet hook, these will take you about 3 minutes to make. If you’re a beginner, watch our How To Crochet A Flower and How To Crochet A Heart videos. The butterfly is basically a four-petaled flower using some of the same stitches as the heart. The only stitch not shown is the dtr (double treble) used in the medium pattern, which you can see on this site. Here are patterns for five different sizes of butterflies, which measure from about 1 inch to 4 inches in size, although the size of your materials and your gauge may change the sizes slightly.
To create the abdomen and antennae, cut a coordinating piece of thread or yarn about four to six inches long (depending on your butterfly’s size). Leaving a short tail, wrap the piece around the middle of the butterfly twice. Tie ends in a double knot. Trim antennae.

Teeny Tiny Butterfly Crochet Pattern
Supplies:
*Embroidery floss
*Size 6 crochet hook
Ch 4. Sl st into first st to form a ring.
*Ch 2. 3dc into ring. Ch 2. Sl st into ring.* Repeat once.
*Ch 1. 3dc into ring. Ch 1. Sl st into ring.* Repeat once.
Fasten off. Create abdomen and antennae.
Small Butterfly Crochet Pattern
Supplies:
*Embroidery floss
*Size 6 hook
Ch 4. Sl st into first ch to form a ring.
*Ch 4. 3tr (treble stitch) into ring. Ch 3, sl st into ring.* Repeat once.
*Ch 3. 3dc into ring. Ch 3, sl st into ring.* Repeat once.
Fasten off. Create abdomen and antennae.
This card uses the small pattern.

Medium Butterfly Crochet Pattern
Supplies:
*Embroidery floss
*Size C hook
Ch 4. Sl st into first ch to form a ring.
*Ch 4. Work 3 dtr (double treble stitch) into ring. Ch 4, sl st into ring.* Repeat once.
*Ch 3, work 3tr into ring. Ch 3, sl st into ring.* Repeat once.
Fasten off. Create abdomen and antennae.

Large Butterfly Crochet Pattern
Supplies:
*Sport weight yarn
*Size C hook
Ch 4. Sl st into first ch to form a ring.
*Ch 4. 3tr (treble stitch) into ring. Ch 3, sl st into ring.* Repeat once.
*Ch 3. 3dc into ring. Ch 3, sl st into ring.* Repeat once.
Fasten off. Create abdomen and antennae.
Extra Large Butterfly Crochet Pattern
Supplies:
*Sport weight yarn
*Size G hook
Ch 4. Sl st into first ch to form a ring.
*Ch 4. Work 3 dtr (double treble stitch) into ring. Ch 4, sl st into ring.* Repeat once.
*Ch 3, work 3tr into ring. Ch 3, sl st into ring.* Repeat once.
Fasten off. Create abdomen and antennae.

ma si potra’? una roba cosi’ ti porta l’allegria in casa.

Sempre dal blog ATTIC 24

I’m writing this pattern in UK crochet terms, and the stitches you will need to know are chains, double crochet (dc) and slip stitch, as follows ::

sl st :: insert hook, yarn over, pull the loop back through the stitch, then through the loop on your hook.

dc:: insert hook, yarn over, pull the loop back through the stitch (two loops on hook), yarn over and pull through both loops on hook. [this is equivalent to a US sc]

To begin :: chain 5 and join to make a ring. You will work the first round out of this ring.

ROUND 1 ::

Chain 1 (counts as 1dc), 1dc, then chain 3 (as in above pic)

*2dc, chain 3* (as in above pic)

Repeat the *2dc, chain3* four more times, creating little pointy chain-loops.

Slip stitch into initial chain-1 to join.

You should be able to clearly see the six chain loops you’ve made….you’ll be working out of these chain loops in the  next round.

ROUND 2 ::

To begin, slip stitch into the first chain loop (as in above pic). This makes sure you will be starting the round in the right place.

In the first chain loop, work the following :: chain 1 (counts as 1dc), 1dc, chain 3, 2dc (as in above pic).

In the second chain loop, work the following ::

*2dc, chain 3, 2dc*

Repeat four more times between **, working out of the four remaining chain loops.

Slip stitch into initial chain-1 to join.

As in the previous round, you should be able to clearly see the six pointy chain loops you’ve just made….you’ll be working out of these chain loops in the  next round.

You can fasten off at this point which creates a small, neat, star-shaped snowflake, or you can continue to add a third round……

ROUND 3 ::

To begin, slip stitch into the first chain loop which makes sure you will be starting the round in the right place.

Now work the following, all out of the first chain loop ::

*1dc, chain 3, 1dc, chain 5, 1dc, chain 3, 1dc, chain 2*

Repeat five more times between **, working out of the five remaining chain loops.

You should have ended the round with a chain-2 (as in above pic)…now slip stitch into the first dc you made to join the round.

Fasten off, and weave in the end on the reverse.

Eh Voila!!!! One six-pointy, pretty-lacy hooky snowflake!!

Now a little note about the finishing-off stage…as you can see in the above before-and-after picture, these little snowflakes really benefit from some after-hooky spa treatment. It makes a tremendous difference and is soooo worth the extra time and effort.

To block out my crochet, I use a piece of inch-thick foam covered with an old towel :: if you don’t have foam then don’t worry, you could use an old cushion/pillow covered in a towel, or maybe cover some packaging cardboard with a towel or simply fold the towel up until you have a thickness that you can happily stick pins in to.

Now take some dressmaking pins and pin out the six points of the snowflake, stretching them right out until you are happy with the shape.

You can either spray them with luke warm water, or better still, use a laundry spray starch to stiffen the snowflake slightly. The starch (which is readily available from supermarkets or shops selling household/laundry products) works brilliantly, and makes the snowy flakes hang beautifully without curling…I can heartily recommend this starchy spray stuff for decorative projects such as this. Leave the snowflakes to dry completely before removing the pins and admiring your little creation.

And I think that’s about all I can tell you about snowflake making….hope you enjoy trying these, and I wish you many festive joyful moments with hook and yarn :o)

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PS, a note about my pattern………my snowflake has been directly inspired by a free pattern I came across on the “Coats and Clark” website. The Original pattern was written by Mary Jane Protus, and can be found on the Coats and Crafts website HERE.

I have altered it to suit my way of thinking and working with crochet, simplifying it a little if you like, and written it out in UK crochet terms. But I give full credit for the original design to Mary Jane Protus.

xxx

io non sono propriamente fatta per i lavori a lunga lunghissima scadenza ma… mi sono sempre piaciute le coperte all’uncinetto a quadrettoni. Ne ho ereditata una dalla mia bisnonna… e vorrei farne una anche io.

Ero partita dall’idea di fare una coperta matrimoniale, poi sono passata alla singola… ora quasi quasi mi butto su una sciarpa

Da questo blog tutorialino fotografico che incollo di seguito:

How to Make a Basic Granny Square:

Step-by-Step.

Continue working around as before.

Grazie a QUESTO SITO riepiloghiamo i punti base:

Catenella:
formare un anello con il filo. Introdurre l’uncinetto nell’anello, agganciare il filo e tirarlo in modo da stringere il nodo. Gettare il filo sull’uncinetto e farlo passare attraverso l’asola : si forma così la prima catenella.  Ripetere  sempre  quest’ultimo movimento.

Maglia bassissima:
inserire l’uncinetto   nella maglia di base, gettare  il filo sull’uncinetto  e farlo passare contemporaneamente attraverso la maglia di   base e quella  già sull’uncinetto.

Maglia bassa:
inserire l’uncinetto nella m di base, gettarvi sopra il filo e farlo passare attraverso la maglia di base; di nuovo gettare il filo sull’uncinetto e farlo passare attraverso le due maglie che si sono formate.

Mezza maglia alta:
gettare il filo sull’uncinetto, inserire quest’ultimo nella maglia di base, gettare ancora il filo sull’uncinetto e farlo nuovamente passare attraverso la magluia di base, gettare un’altra volta il filo sull’uncinetto e  farlo passare attraverso le 3 maglie formatesi.

Maglia alta:
gettare il filo, inserire l’uncinetto nella maglia di base ed estrarre 1 maglia, gettare di nuovo il filo ed estrarlo attraverso le prime 2 maglie, gettare ancora e farlo passare attraverso le ultime 2 maglie.

Maglia alta doppia o altissima:
gettare 2 volte il filo, poi procedere come per la maglia alta chiudendo le maglie a due a due (si fa quindi 1 movimento in più ).

Maglia alta tripla :
gettare 3 volte il filo sull’uncinetto, poi procedere come per la maglia alta, chiudendo le maglie a due a due (si fanno quindi 2 movimenti in più )

Maglia alta quadrupla:
gettare4 volte il filo, poi procedere come per la maglia alta, chiudendo le maglie a due a due (si fanno 3 movimenti in più).